Abstract

Drawing on the practice of 'underground secret dining' in Jakarta, Indonesia, this paper attempts to examine culinary tourism as a way of enacting cosmopolitanism. What images of otherness in culinary tourism are effective in enticing cosmopolitan domestic tourists? What do these local cuisines represent for these tourists? While being cosmopolitans, domestic tourists are reaffirming their identity of Indonesian-ness. This affirmation is achieved by juxtaposing Indonesian with Western identities but also by gazing at Indonesia through the Western lens. The revival of interest on Indonesian culinary is not simply a reaction to Westernisation but rather an expression of desiring an Indonesia beyond the image that has long been presented and underrepresented by the state.

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