Abstract
1,4-dioxane should be less than or equal to 10 ppm in finished cosmetic products according to the recommendation of the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, but it is often generated as a by-product during the manufacturing process of poly(ethylene glycol) (PEG)-based derivatives. In order to avoid the possible risk caused by 1,4-dioxane, it might be a good choice for preparing cosmetic ingredients by using polyglycerin (PG) instead of PEG as a hydrophilic segment. In the present study, polyglyceryl-10 caprylates were synthesized by the esterification reaction between polyglycerin-10 and caprylic acid. FTIR and 1H NMR were utilized to confirm the chemical structures of the obtained polyglyceryl-10 caprylates. Light transmittance was availed to investigate the water solubility of polyglyceryl-10 caprylates. The self-assembly behavior, size, and size distribution of polyglyceryl-10 caprylates were investigated by dynamic light scattering. The makeup cleansing effect was also evaluated by in vitro and in vivo methods. Irritation was evaluated by hen’s egg test-chorioallantoic membrane assay (HET-CAM). Results showed that polyglyceryl-10 monocaprylate could self-assemble into nanoparticles in the water at the concentration range of 2.5–10 wt% with a transparent appearance. The diameter of formed nanoparticles was around 100 nm with a narrow particle size distribution around 0.1 at the concentration of 2.5 wt% or 5 wt%. Polyglyceryl-10 monocaprylate exhibited good removal effect against makeup and excellent removal efficacy against pen eyeliner. The irritation of polyglyceryl-10 monocaprylate evaluated by HET-CAM at the concentration of 4 wt% was moderate irritant (irritation score = 8.4), which was lower than that of PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides (severe irritant, irritation score = 14.1). Therefore, polyglyceryl-10 monocaprylate might be a promising cosmetic ingredient for transparent makeup removing water.
Highlights
With the sustained and rapid development of the economy and the improvement of living standards, people are beginning to pay more and more attention to their appearances
If the makeup cannot be cleaned from the skin in depth, it will accumulate on the skin surface to affect skin metabolism and cause skin problems, such as clogged pores and contact dermatitis [1,2,3]
poly(ethylene glycol) (PEG)-6 caprylic/capric glycerides is a mixture of polyethylene glycol derivative, which contains mono, di, and triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids with an average of six ethylene oxide structural units in one PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides molecule [34]
Summary
With the sustained and rapid development of the economy and the improvement of living standards, people are beginning to pay more and more attention to their appearances. The sales volume of the makeup market keeps growing sustainably in the past decades. Makeup removing process has become an indispensable part of daily life for people who apply makeup products every day, and the research and development of safe makeup remover products are important [4,5,6]. Makeup remover products mainly include cleansing oil, cleansing gel, and makeup removing water. The makeup removing water is popular in recent years due to its transparent appearance, convenient use, being refreshing, and non-sticky.
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