Abstract

The textile industry is ambitiously parading towards circularity and curtailing its dependency on fossil fuels hence the instigated research that adheres to Sustainable Developmental Goals (SDGs) and benefits the environment and human health alike. The current research experimented with innovative sources of plant-based biomaterials namely dandelion leaves, bilberry leaves, nettle leaves, and violet herb for application on cotton fabric as biomordants and colourants. The AAS analysis of mild 6% herbal solution revealed ferrous content of 6.78 mg/l in violet herb and 5.03 mg/l of the copper content in dandelion leaves applicable on cotton fabrics as biomordants thereby preventing the depletion of copper and ferrous elements mineral ores. A fair lightfastness rating and good to very good wash and rub fastness test results were obtained individually. The maximum K/S value of 13.95 was gained on cotton fabrics treated with a mild herbal infusion of bilberry leaves and coloured with violet herbs. The ATR-FTIR peak analysis noted strong = C-H bend of alkenes, strong C = O stretch of α and β unsaturated esters, and strong C-O stretch of carboxylic acids functional groups in raw herbs and its treated cotton fabrics. The dissolved oxygen (DO), oxidation–reduction potential (ORP), and potential of Hydrogen (pH) values were found in the acceptable range for all the spent solutions left after colouration of cotton fabrics with violet herbs hence sustainable. The data set obtained was statistically validated with ANOVA one-way test. Life cycle analysis and clinical investigation on potential therapeutic benefits of herbal fabrics to the wearer are suggested for future research and development.

Highlights

  • Data from several studies suggest that it is imperative to acquire sustainability in textile wet processing units

  • The cotton fabric samples were biomordanted with oak bark, dandelion leaves, bilberry leaves, and nettle leaves before colouration

  • The maximum absorbance of 13.95 K/S was gained on cotton fabric samples pre-treated with bilberry leaves and coloured with violet herb followed by 11.12 K/S acquired on cotton fabric samples biomordanted with nettle leaves and coloured with the violet herb

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Summary

Introduction

Data from several studies suggest that it is imperative to acquire sustainability in textile wet processing units. Thakker and Sun examined native flora, namely mugwort herb, rue herb, and black cherry stem as biomordant for application on cotton fabrics, and sequentially coloured with hops flowers. The atomic absorption spectrometry (AAS) analysis of 6% stock herbal infusions identified the highest levels of copper and ferrous content in hops flower, and black cherry stems of 6.5 mg/l and 11 mg/l, respectively, as a prospective ecological and innovative source of mordants and colours. There exists ancient grey literature that mentions the colouration of cotton and wool fabrics with bilberry leaves, nettle leaves, and violet herb to obtain green colour with synthetic mordants (Just Ingredients 2021), the initiated research. “Complete transparency of all ingredients” would be mandatory (EPEA GmbH 2020)

Result
Method of colouration
Results and discussion
Evaluation of fastness properties
Conclusions
Future work

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