Substitution of synthetic waxes by plant-based waxes in lipsticks

Abstract

The ultimate symbol of femininity, lipstick is often a brand’s most attractive makeup product. First created several thousand years ago, its composition has evolved a great deal since then, particularly in the 20th century, when petroleum and its derivatives were discovered. But today, with the emergence of Clean Beauty, customers are looking to go back to more natural compositions that respect the environment and their health. However, the total substitution of synthetic waxes has inevitably brought with its problems of product stability, lipstick solidity, sweating, incompatibilities and oxidation, which today’s ever more demanding consumers are not ready to accept. Beyond stability, the sensoriality and the performance of lipsticks can be altered by such substitution. The objective of this study is therefore to find plant-based substitutes for synthetic waxes, which do not reduce the stability and the overall quality of lipsticks. To this end, the physicochemical properties of plant-based waxes will first be measured, and the best candidates will then be introduced into an all-natural lipstick formula. Some waxes tested have a value equivalent to synthetic wax on one physico-chemical parameter but are less efficient on another. The mixtures of waxes with oils of different polarities show that no wax is as ubiquitous as petroleum wax. To conclude, none of the waxes evaluated can substitute the synthetic wax weight for weight in a formula.