Abstract
Due to the content of phytosterols, extractive preparations of Urtica dioica roots are able to show antiandrogenic effect in the case of external therapy of men and women with androgenic alopecia. Oil extracts (OE) are characterized by several advantages when applied to the skin of the scalp compared to water-alcohol extracts. For the development of OE technology from Urtica dioica roots, it is important to choose the optimal extraction parameters, which are based on the quantitative determination of phytosterols in the extractant and the studied samples of extracts.
 The aim of the work is to choose the optimal parameters for obtaining OE from Urtica dioica roots based on quantitative determination of phytosterols content in experimental samples of OE by gas capillary chromatography.
 Materials and methods. Objects of the research – Urtica dioica root, refined corn oil, refined sunflower oil, samples of oil extracts. Determination of phytosterol content in experimental samples was carried out by gas capillary chromatography (chromatograph “Crystal 2000”, manufacturer – research and production company “Analytics”).
 Results. 5 different compounds of steroid structure (stigmasterol, β-sitosterol, etc.) were identified in sunflower oil by gas liquid chromatography, and 10 (campesterol, 2-α stigmasterol, β-sitosterol, Δ5-avenosterol, etc.) were identified in sunflower oil. The quantitative content of β-sitosterol in the sum of sterols of corn oil was significantly higher compared to the content of this substance in sunflower oil and amounted to 59.33 %. Optimal technological parameters were established considering the peculiarities of extraction with oil extractant and quantitative determination of the amount of phytosterols and β-sitosterol in experimental samples of OE. The total content of plant sterols in OE, including considering their amount in the extractant, was in the range of 7880 mg/kg; the amount of β-sitosterol was 4638 mg/kg.
 Conclusion. The choice of optimal parameters for obtaining OE from UDR based on determination of phytosterol yield by gas capillary chromatography was experimentally substantiated, namely: extractant – corn oil, raw material-extract ratio – 1: 5, extraction time – 6 h, extraction method – maceration
Highlights
The group of herbal extracts includes oil extracts (Extracta oleosa) or medicinal oils (Olea medicata)
Refined and cold pressed vegetable oils such as sunflower, corn, apricot, peach, almond, olive, soybean, peanut, sesame, coconut oil and others are used for extraction of medicinal plant raw materials (MPRM) [1]
Along with other hygienic hair care cosmetics such as lotions, shampoos, balms, masks, etc., hair oils (HO) has a number of benefits, namely: soften, give shine, promote easy combing, moisturize hair and scalp, regulate sebaceous glands, improve the nutrition of hair follicles due to the content in the base-carriers of unsaturated fatty acids, phospholipids, sterols and other biologically active substances (BAS) [3, 4]
Summary
The group of herbal extracts includes oil extracts (Extracta oleosa) or medicinal oils (Olea medicata). Refined and cold pressed vegetable oils such as sunflower, corn, apricot, peach, almond, olive, soybean, peanut, sesame, coconut oil and others are used for extraction of medicinal plant raw materials (MPRM) [1]. OEs, which are used in cosmetics for hair care, are called hair oils (HO) or hair tonics. Along with other hygienic hair care cosmetics such as lotions, shampoos, balms, masks, etc., HO has a number of benefits, namely: soften, give shine, promote easy combing, moisturize hair and scalp, regulate sebaceous glands, improve the nutrition of hair follicles due to the content in the base-carriers of unsaturated fatty acids, phospholipids, sterols and other biologically active substances (BAS) [3, 4]
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