Abstract
Coastal evolution occurs on a wide range of time-scales, from storms, seasonal and inter-annual time-scales to longer-term adaptation to changing environmental conditions. Measuring campaigns typically either measure morphological evolution on a short-time scale (days) with high frequency (hourly) or long-time scales (years) but intermittently (monthly). This leaves an important observational gap that limits morphological variability assessments. Traditional echo sounding measurements on this long time-scale and high-frequency sampling require a significant financial injection. Shore-based video systems with high spatiotemporal resolution can bridge this gap. For the first time, hourly Kalman filtered video-derived bathymetries covering 1.5 years of morphological evolution with an hourly resolution obtained at Porhtowan, UK are presented. Here, the long-term hourly dataset is used and aims to show its added value for, and provide an in-depth, morphological analyses with unprecedented temporal resolution. The time-frame includes calm and extreme (storm) wave conditions in a macro-tidal environment. The video-derived bathymetries allow hourly beach state classification while before this was not possible due to the dependence on foam patterns of wave breaking (e.g., saturation during storms). The study period covers extreme storm erosion during the most energetic winter season in 60 years (2013–2014). Recovery of the beach takes place on several time-scales: (1) an immediate initial recovery after the storm season (first 2 months), (2) limited recovery during low energetic summer conditions and (3) accelerated recovery as the wave conditions picked up in the subsequent fall—under wave conditions that are typically erosive. The video-derived bathymetries are shown to be effective in determining bar-positions, outer-bar three-dimensionality and volume analyses with an unprecedented hourly temporal resolution.
Highlights
Intensifying and more frequent storms and corresponding increased coastal water levels [1] and wave conditions [2], affect the usability, economic value and protection of the world coastal areas [3]
The video-derived bathymetries are shown to be effective in determining bar-positions, outer-bar three-dimensionality and volume analyses with an unprecedented hourly temporal resolution
The most energetic winter season in the past 60 years of wave measurements occurred at the study site [18], during the 2013–2014 winter season
Summary
Intensifying and more frequent storms and corresponding increased coastal water levels [1] and wave conditions [2], affect the usability, economic value and protection of the world coastal areas [3]. High resolution/frequency measurements for small-scale processes are carried out over short periods [10,11] and vice versa for large-scale less frequent measurements [12,13,14,15,16] but with our present state-of-the-art set of measuring tools, it is still thought challenging to cover all the scales with a single conventional tool. This leads to important data gaps and consequent knowledge gaps
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