Stokes drift in coral reefs with depth-varying permeability.

Abstract

In his famous paper of 1847 (Stokes GG. 1847 On the theory of oscillatory waves. Trans. Camb. Phil. Soc. 8, 441-455), Stokes introduced the drift effect of particles in a fluid that is undergoing wave motion. This effect, now known as Stokes drift, is the result of differences between the Lagrangian and Eulerian velocities of the fluid element and has been well-studied, both in the laboratory and as a mechanism of mass transport in the oceans. On a smaller scale, it is of vital importance to the hydrodynamics of coral reefs to understand drift effects arising from waves on the ocean surface, transporting nutrients and oxygen to the complex ecosystems within. A new model is proposed for a class of coral reefs in shallow seas, which have a permeable layer of depth-varying permeability. We then note that the behaviour of the waves above the reef is only affected by the permeability at the top of the porous layer, and not its properties within, which only affect flow inside the porous layer. This model is then used to describe two situations found in coral reefs; namely, algal layers overlying the reef itself and reef layers whose permeability decreases with depth. This article is part of the theme issue 'Stokes at 200 (part 2)'.