Abstract

ABSTRACTTo analyse the fit of sari blouse, a subjective fit rating scale has been developed with fit attributes such as ease measurement, number of folds or wrinkles and seam line deviation. These fit attributes were measured on subjects and the range of values obtained were used to prepare the subjective fit rating scale with attributes, ease (linear index (LI)), folds or wrinkles and seam line deviation. The study also focused on understanding the precise ease allowance required for the construction of commercially available blouse materials and ease reduction (ER) allowance required for the construction of woven stretch blouses. Seventeen commercial sari blouse materials and six developed woven stretch fabrics, a total of 23 blouses, were constructed into blouses and wore by three figure types to study the fit assessment on fit attributes. The ER allowance was standardised for woven stretch fabrics based on the percentage of stretch. The sari blouses that well-fitted on subjects have zero ease (LI) and less number of folds. The developed fit rating scale can be used as a fitting guide by women wearing sari blouse to assess the fit of blouse.

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