Stability evaluation of tocopheryl acetate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate in isolation and incorporated in cosmetic formulations using thermal analysis

Mariana Mandelli De Almeida,Joyce Santos Quenca-Guillen,Maria Inês Rocha Miritello Santoro,Lucildes Pita Mercuri,Cibele Rosana Ribeiro De Castro Lima,Erika Rosa Maria Kedor-Hackmann,Elder Moscardini Filho

doi:10.1590/s1984-82502010000100015

Mariana Mandelli De Almeida, Joyce Santos Quenca-Guillen + Show 5 more

Open Access

https://doi.org/10.1590/s1984-82502010000100015

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Abstract

In view of the increase in the number of cosmetic preparations containing antioxidant vitamins, chiefly, due to their action in preventing the process of skin aging, there is a need to develop pre-formulation studies and to validate analytical methods in order to obtain high quality products. Thus, the objective of this research was to evaluate and compare the thermal behavior of tocopheryl acetate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate as raw materials, and incorporated into a base cream. Thermogravimetry (TG / DTG) and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) were used for this purpose. Both vitamins were found to be stable up to 250ºC. The base cream (placebo) and the sample (base cream containing the vitamins) presented different weight loss. Thermal analysis has shown itself to be an excellent tool for the characterization of these vitamins and can be used in routine analysis for quality control of this type of cosmetic formulation.

Highlights

Vitamins are used topically to treat skin diseases, especially in preventive action to delay or prevent certainStudies conducted by Idson, 1994, proved that certain vitamins and their derivatives improve the performance of cosmetics and toiletries
For better characterization of materials, it is important to combine data from Thermogravimetry/ derivative thermogravimetry (TG/Derivative thermogravimetry (DTG)) and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) tests, as the DSC detects events associated or otherwise to mass loss, while the TG/DTG indicates thermal events related to mass variation (Wendlant, 1986)
According to Silva, Paola Matos (2007), several authors have contributed to the field by applying thermal analysis in studies on materials used in cosmetic preparations, and report the application of several thermoanalytical techniques in the development, production and quality control of cosmetic products

Summary

Introduction

Vitamins are used topically to treat skin diseases, especially in preventive action to delay or prevent certain. Studies conducted by Idson, 1994, proved that certain vitamins and their derivatives improve the performance of cosmetics and toiletries. Laboratory tests and clinical trials have provided strong evidence that these. Kedor-Hackmann vitamins, in adequate concentrations, play an important role in protective processes and in repair and renewal of hair, skin and nails (Idson, 1994)

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