Sport-specific finger flexor strength assessment using electronic scales in sport climbers

Abstract

The aim of this study was to assess the validity and reliability of four climbing grip positions during finger flexor strength measurement using electronic scales in sport climbing contexts. Fifty-five climbers with self-reported climbing abilities RP (redpoint) between V and XII– on the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme scale volunteered to the study. Strength measures were obtained using open grip (OG), crimp grip (CG), index+middle (IM) finger, middle+ring (MR) finger on a 23 mm wide wood-edge climbing hold. The climbers were asked to stand on the scale platform and to progressively load their maximum weight on to the tested arm. Strength for each measurement was calculated by subtracting the lowest value shown during grip hold from the participant's body mass. Intra-session reliability was calculated across three trials and test-retest reliability through a cohort tested in a second testing session on week later. The intra-class correlation coefficients for all grip positions ranged be...