Abstract
In this study, frequency spectra were obtained by applying the Zero-Up Crossing Transform (ZUCT) and the fast Fourier transform (FFT) methods from the waveform data observed at one point of a macro-tidal beach. Their frequency spectrum conversion characteristics according to changes in water depth can be investigated and compared with the TMA spectrum applicable to shallow water. The ZUCT method is based on the reproducibility of the actual wave height and period and applies a technique that guarantees energy conservation. In particular, when the tidal level is low, the spectrum by the ZUCT method seems to show a similar shape to the TMA spectrum over the entire tidal range even if the spectrum is deformed due to partial depth-induced wave breaking. This study derived the reduction rate of the frequency spectrum by wave breaking, assuming that the wave height distribution for each frequency followed the Rayleigh distribution. Based on this, we proposed the TMA-SOON (Spectrum Operated On Nearshore), a frequency spectrum equation applicable to the nearshore zone where wave breaking occurs. Therefore, by using this formula, it is possible to estimate the incoming wave energy as well as the incoming frequency spectrum from the observation data in the wave breaking region.
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