Abstract

An accurate way to determine skin pigmentation is to acquire the spectral reflectance of a skin sample and to quantify chromophores by reverse calculation from physical models of light propagation. Therefore, we tested a new hyperspectral imaging device and software suite, the SpectraCam® system, and evaluated its accuracy to quantify skin chromophores. Validation of the SpectraCam® system was performed by, firstly, comparing the known and the acquired reflectance spectra of color phantoms. Repeatability and reproducibility were then evaluated by two operators who performed acquisitions at different time points and compared the acquired reflectance spectra. The specificity of the system was tested by quantitative analysis of single chromophore variation models: lentigo and pressure relief. Finally, we tested the ability of the SpectraCam® system to detect variations in chromophore in the eye region due to the daily application of a new anti-dark circle cosmetic product. The SpectraCam® system faithfully acquires the reflectance spectra of color phantoms (r2 >0.90). The skin reflectance spectra acquired by different operators at different times are highly repeatable (r2 >0.94) and reproducible (r2 >0.99). The SpectraCam® system can also produce qualitative maps that reveal local variations in skin chromophore or underlying structures such as blood vessels. The system is precise enough to detect melanin variation in lentigo or total hemoglobin and oxygen saturation variations upon pressure relief. It is also sensitive enough to detect a decrease in melanin in the eye region due to the application of an anti-dark circle cosmetic product. The SpectraCam® system proves to be rapid and produces high-resolution data encompassing a large field of view. It is a robust hyperspectral imaging system that quantifies melanin, total hemoglobin, and oxygen saturation and is well adapted to cosmetic research.

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