Skin surface physico-chemistry: Characteristics, methods of measurement, influencing factors and future developments

Abstract

Physico-chemical properties such as surface free energy, polarity or hydrophobicity of solid surfaces have been largely studied in literature because they are involved in many physical phenomena: adhesion, friction, wetting … Nowadays, the study of biointerfaces is of great interest for the medical, the pharmaceutical or the cosmetic field but also for material design researches, especially for the development of biomimetic surfaces. The present paper focuses on a particular biointerface, namely skin, which is the most extended organ of the human body. The different ways for the study of skin physico-chemistry are first reviewed, followed by their practical uses, from pharmaceutical to cosmetic science. Those properties depict the ways skin interacts with topical products, its lipid composition but also its hydration state. In addition, this article aims to present recent approaches using original model materials in order to mimic human skin; indeed, in vivo experiments are often limited by the inter and intra individual variability, the safety regulation and above all the time and the cost of such studies. Finally, further data clearly highlight the importance of skin surface properties for dermatological and pharmaceutical researches.