Abstract
Driven by wave and current, sediment transport alongshore and cross-shore induces shoreline changes in coasts. Estimated by breaking wave energy flux, longshore sediment transport in littoral zone has been studied for decades. Cross-shore sediment transport can be significant in a gentle-slope beach and a barred coast due to bar migration. Short-term beach profile evolution (typically for a few days or weeks) has been successfully simulated by reconstructing nonlinear wave shape in nearshore zone (e.g. Hsu et al 2006, Fernandez-Mora et al. 2015). However, it is still lack of knowledge on the relationship between cross-shore sediment transport and long-term shoreline evolution. Based on the methodology of beach profile evolution modeling, a semi-empirical closure model is developed for estimating phase-average net cross-shore sediment transport rate induced by waves, currents, and gravity. This model has been implemented into GenCade, the USACE shoreline evolution model.
Highlights
Driven by wave and current, sediment transport alongshore and cross-shore induces shoreline changes in coasts
Net sediment transport rates for the wave and current (Qw and Qc) are calculated by the formulation proposed by Fernández-Mora et al (2015), which requires a nonlinear wave shape model to give near-bed wave orbital velocity
Model validation was performed by simulating long-term shoreline changes from 1999 to 2005 in a 5-km-long coastline in Duck, North Carolina (NC), USA (Fig. 1a)
Summary
Driven by wave and current, sediment transport alongshore and cross-shore induces shoreline changes in coasts. Short-term beach profile evolution (typically for a few days or weeks) has been successfully simulated by reconstructing nonlinear wave shape in nearshore zone (e.g. Hsu et al 2006, Fernández-Mora et al 2015) It is still lack of knowledge on the relationship between cross-shore sediment transport and long-term shoreline evolution. Based on the methodology of beach profile evolution modeling, a semi-empirical closure model is developed for estimating phase-average net cross-shore sediment transport rate induced by waves, currents, and gravity. This model has been implemented into GenCade, the USACE shoreline evolution model (Frey et al 2012)
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