Abstract
In this paper, a simulation model is presented which describes the formation and destruction of longshore bars. The distribution of sediment in the nearshore zone is modeled using a sediment continuity equation. Mass fluxes of sediment are computed using semi-empirical equations outside the breaker zone. Inside the breaker line, transport is made proportional to the velocity inside a solitary wave, and the direction of transport is made dependent on the wave type, so that seaward transport in the surf zone is characteristic of plunging breakers. The model is successful in simulating the geometrical properties of longshore bars in two dimensions as well as the sequence of events in bar formation. Comparison with field data suggests that berm/bar transition takes place during plunging breaker conditions, therefore the wave type is probably of greater importance than wave height or steepness in predicting the profile type. Three modes of profile recovery following storms are modeled: bar stabilization, bar destruction, and bar migration. The type of response depends on the sequence of wave heights and periods during the post-storm time span.
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