Abstract

Novel nanotechnologies represent the most attractive and innovative tools to date exploited by cosmetic companies to improve the effectiveness of their formulations. In this context, nanoliposomes have had a great impact in topical preparations and dermocosmetics, allowing the transcutaneous penetration and absorption of several active ingredients and improving the stability of sensitive molecules. Despite the recent boom of this class of delivery systems, their industrial production is still limited by the lack of easily scalable production techniques. In this work, nanoliposomes for the topical administration of vitamin D3, K2, E, and curcumin, molecules with high antioxidant and skin curative properties but unstable and poorly absorbable, were produced through a novel simil-microfluidic technique. The developed high-yield semi continuous method is proposed as an alternative to face the problems linked with low productive conventional methods in order to produce antioxidant formulations with improved features. The novel technique has allowed to obtain a massive production of stable antioxidant vesicles of an 84–145 nm size range, negatively charged, and characterized by high loads and encapsulation efficiencies. The obtained products as well as the developed high-performance technology make the achieved formulations very interesting for potential topical applications in the cosmetics/cosmeceutical field.

Highlights

  • Nanotechnology is considered the most powerful and promising strategy of the 21st century providing innovative solutions and new opportunities to modern cosmetic dermatology through the investigation of the unique properties of matter at the nanoscale [1,2,3,4]

  • Considering the social impact of skin care on life quality, it is not surprising that cosmetic industries such as Lancôme, Christian Dior, Estee Lauder, Shiseido, Johnsons & Johnsons, and many others are investing in the engineered nanomaterials for makeup products and alternative formulations for the management of different dermatological diseases [41,42]

  • An evident and increasing incorporation of nanotechnology in most of their manufacturing processes, the scaling-up to achieve greater production is the major difficulty faced by industries, limiting them to the use of conventional techniques, e.g., the patented “Gaulin method” of Johnson & Johnson Company exploits a high shear homogenizer equipment, working at high pressure and temperature, for the production of liposomes for cosmetic/diagnostic/pharmaceutical applications [43]

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Summary

Introduction

Nanotechnology is considered the most powerful and promising strategy of the 21st century providing innovative solutions and new opportunities to modern cosmetic dermatology through the investigation of the unique properties of matter at the nanoscale [1,2,3,4]. Nanoparticles, recognized for their potential to penetrate human skin, are increasingly used to enhance the topical delivery of cosmetic ingredients and to give stability to formulations that contain degradable materials [5,6,7]. The production of formulations containing nanoparticles has been disciplined by the Regulation (EC) n. A prominent place is occupied by nanoliposomes for cosmetic and cosmeceutical preparations, used for the formulation of anti-aging creams, moisturizers, sun lotions, facial beauty masks, for the treatment of hair loss, and many other applications [1,12]. Since 1986, the year in which the first liposomal cosmetic product, the anti-aging cream “Capture” launched by Christian Dior, appeared on the market, countless cosmetic formulations containing nanoliposomes have been patented (Supplementary Materials Figure S1). Nanoliposomes (often denominated small unilamellar vesicles, SUV) are vesicles of nanometric size characterized by an aqueous core surrounded by an hydrophobic bilayer, which can accommodate, inside their structure, active molecules of a different nature [13]

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