Abstract
A beach equilibrium model is developed that treats the outer (shorerise) portion of the profile independently from that of the inner (bar‐berm) portion. The two portions are matched at the breakpoint‐bar. The partitioning of the profile in this way is consistent with the different forcing modes on either side of the breakpoint. This formulation utilizes beach profile data not previously available. It is shown that both portions of the profile are well fitted by curves of the formh=Axm, wherehis positive downward andxis the positive offshore coordinate. Surprisingly, the value ofm≈ 0.4 is nearly the same for shorerise and bar‐berm and does not change significantly with seasonal beach changes (summer/winter). The principal difference between seasonal profiles is that in winter (higher waves) the breakpoint‐bar is deeper and farther offshore while the berm crest is displaced landward. Thus the changes in seasonal equilibria are manifested by simple, self‐similar displacements of the bar‐berm and shorerise curves as a consequence of changes in surf zone width andO(1) variations in the factorA.
Talk to us
Join us for a 30 min session where you can share your feedback and ask us any queries you have
Schedule a callDisclaimer: All third-party content on this website/platform is and will remain the property of their respective owners and is provided on "as is" basis without any warranties, express or implied. Use of third-party content does not indicate any affiliation, sponsorship with or endorsement by them. Any references to third-party content is to identify the corresponding services and shall be considered fair use under The CopyrightLaw.
