Shoreline Variation Analysis by Cross-Shore Sediment Transport Resulting from Effects of Storm Waves

Abstract

Kim, T.K.; Jeong, J.H., and Lee, J.L., 2021. Shoreline variation analysis by cross-shore sediment transport resulting from effects of storm waves. In: Lee, J.L.; Suh, K.-S.; Lee, B.; Shin, S., and Lee, J. (eds.), Crisis and Integrated Management for Coastal and Marine Safety. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 114, pp. 539–543. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Coastal beach erosion is affected by not only the wave energy of a storm wave, but also its duration. Therefore, this study analyzes the duration characteristics for different storm wave scenarios using wave data obtained over 40 years; these data were provided by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA). Further, the vulnerability of shoreline erosion deduced from the correlation between the cumulative breaking wave energy and observed shoreline variability was discussed. To analyze the duration of storm wave scenarios, we propose dimensionless characteristics for peak wave height per storm wave scenario and a representative mathematical function for storm wave scenarios. Shoreline variability is calculated using the shoreline survey data for Bongpo Beach, located on the eastern coast of South Korea, measured quarterly for nine years. The cumulative breaking wave energy flowing into the beach generally exhibited a linear relationship with the shoreline variability. Therefore, this study suggests a simple method to determine the extent to which the shoreline retreats given the peak wave height of the incoming wave scenario.