Abstract
Beaches responses to storms, as well as their potential adaptation to the foreseeable sea level rise (SLR), were investigated along three beaches in a coastal tract in western Sardinia (Western Mediterranean Sea). The grain size of the sediments, the beach profile variability and the wave climate were analyzed in order to relate morphological changes, geological inheritances and waves forcing. Multibeam, single-beam and lidar data were used to characterize the inner shelf morphologies and to reproduce the flooding due to the SLR. The studied beaches experienced major changes when consecutive storms, rather than singles ones, occurred along the coastline. The sediment availability, the grain size and the geomorphological structure of the beaches were the most important factors influencing the beach response. On the sediment-deprived coarse beaches the headlands favor the beach rotation, and the gravel barrier morphology can increase the resistance against storms. On the sediment-abundant beaches, the cross-shore sediment transport towards a submerged area leads to a lowering in the subaerial beach level and a contemporaneous shoreline retreat in response to storms. A very limited ingression of the sea is related to the SLR. This process may affect (i) the gravel barrier, promoting a roll over due to the increase in overwash; (ii) the embayed beach increasing its degree of embayment as headlands become more prominent, and (iii) the sediment-abundant beach with an erosion of the whole subaerial beach during storms, which can also involve the foredune area.
Highlights
The wave climate, the sediment grain size, the topographic features and tides are the main factors that controls the evolution of beaches and barriers in a short-term period [1,2]
The study area was characterized by rocky headland enclosed beaches, composed of a mix of coarse relict siliciclastic grains and finer carbonate biogenic sediments
The studied beaches experienced major changes when consecutive storms, rather than singles ones, occurred along the coastline. The effect of these storms resulted in variability in subaerial beach morphology and in a related variability along beach profiles
Summary
The wave climate, the sediment grain size, the topographic features and tides are the main factors that controls the evolution of beaches and barriers in a short-term period [1,2]. Sediment grain size and composition can affect the morphodynamics of beaches and the morphology of barrier systems [5,6,7,8,9,10]. Beaches and coastal barriers experienced drastic modifications in morphology and grain size during intense storms and extreme marine meteo events [1,11]. Storm events and storm surges can cause coastal erosion, coastal flooding, and damage to infrastructures [12]. During these events the run-up could cause overwash of beach berms or barrier crest, and the extreme flooding can involve inland areas [13,14,15]. The gravel barrier exhibits a high resistance against storms in respect to the sandy barrier [1,10]
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