Shoreline behind a Breakwater: Comparison between Theoretical Models and Field Measurements for the Reggio Calabria Sea

Abstract

Barbaro, G. and Foti, G., 2013. Shoreline behind a breakwater: comparison between theoretical models and field measurements for the Reggio Calabria Sea. Longshore sediment transport is affected by coastal structures, which cause phenomena such as the erosion and deposition of sediments. These phenomena may also occur at locations far from the coastal structure. The prediction and management of shoreline evolution are necessary to protect coasts; they should take into account both long-term and short-term effects and should consider the presence or absence of coastal structures. In this paper several models that predict shoreline evolution behind a breakwater have been analyzed. The results of the predictions have been compared with real shoreline evolution measured in the Natural Ocean Engineering Laboratory (NOEL) in Reggio Calabria, where an experiment concerning the possibility of converting wave energy into electricity using a particular device placed in a breakwater is being investigated. A breakwater was installed in March 2005 and is still there, and it has altered the natural coastal processes affecting the shoreline profile. Comparisons were made in June 2005 (3 months after the installation of the breakwater) and in September 2010. The results indicate that the shoreline profile is not symmetrical about the centerline of the structure, but the salient (the point where advancement is prominent) is displaced toward the south side such that erosion is deeper on the north side.