‘Shisha Nyama’: The rise and fall of the native eating house trade in Johannesburg

Abstract

The business of keeping ‘Native eating houses’ has roots in the earliest days of the mining camp on the Witwatersrand and for the past century Native eating houses have constituted an important institution in the everyday lives and experience of the city's working classes. The task in this paper is to reconstruct the emergence, rise and recent demise of the Native eating house trade in Johannesburg. Issues of concern include the struggles surrounding early licensing and organization of eating houses; locational conflict over eating houses as noxious facilities; and, the progressive decline of the trade with the growth and strengthening of new competitive food sources for Black workers in Johannesburg.