Sensory Evaluation and Oxidative Stability of a Suncream Formulated with Thermal Spring Waters from Ourense (NW Spain) and Sargassum muticum Extracts

Elena Balboa,Astrid Constenla,Enma Conde,Herminia Domínguez,Elena Falqué

doi:10.3390/cosmetics4020019

Abstract

The purpose of this work was to evaluate four thermal spring waters from Ourense and a Sargassum muticum extract as cosmetic ingredients for the preparation of a suncream. The thermal spring waters were tested for their suitability as an aqueous phase main component, and the algal extract was added as an antioxidant instead of using synthetic preservatives in the cosmetic formula. The emulsion was tested for lipid oxidation during a period of 9 months and for consumer acceptance by performing a sensory test on controls and blanks. Further, color parameters were considered, and a pH determination was performed. The S. muticum extract protected from primary and secondary oxidation as efficiently as Fucus sp. or α-tocopherol extracts. In addition, the sensorial test revealed that consumers preferred suncreams prepared with the S. muticum extract and with thermal spring water from O Tinteiro and A Chavasqueira. The pH of the suncreams varied with the selection of the ingredients, and no oscillations in colorimetric values were visually observed. Our results indicate that the algal extract and the thermal spring waters from Ourense are potential cosmetic ingredients, since they showed effectiveness as antioxidant ingredients, and the suncreams were well accepted by consumers.

Highlights

The skin is exposed to external aggressive factors, ultraviolet sun radiation and environmental pollutants, and other external and internal conditions that increase free radical production, which leads to a depletion of the skin’s antioxidant defenses
Strategies to prevent photodamage caused by the cascade of reactions initiated by ultraviolet light (UV) include: scavenging/quenching free radicals, inhibiting the propagation of lipid peroxidative chain reactions, prevention of UV penetration into the skin by physical and chemical sunscreens, prevention/reduction of inflammation, inhibition of both the neutrophil elastase activity and the expression/activity of matrix metalloproteases [2]
The aim of the present study is to evaluate the sensorial properties and the oxidative stability of a suncream, formulated with four thermal spring waters and a brown algal extract, on controls and blanks, stored under domestic use conditions

Summary

Introduction

The skin is exposed to external aggressive factors, ultraviolet sun radiation and environmental pollutants, and other external and internal conditions that increase free radical production, which leads to a depletion of the skin’s antioxidant defenses. The antioxidant defense system is essential for the body’s protection against reactive oxygen species (ROS) generated by the environment. It includes three groups of antioxidants: essential nutrients (vitamins), enzymes, and phytochemical substances. The ability of cosmetics to protect against the generation of free radicals or to reduce their effects has been proposed to classify cosmetic and pharmaceutical products [3]. The incorporation of extracts as ingredients in cosmetic formulas would produce cosmetics with high effectiveness and long-lasting actions [5]

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