Sediment Transport Equivalent Waves for Estimating Annually Averaged Sedimentation and Erosion Trends in Sandy Coastal Areas

Abstract

In this paper, a simple approach to determine representative offshore wave characteristics for estimating the annually averaged sedimentation and erosion trends in sandy coastal areas is presented. Given the offshore wave climate, the proposed approach breaks down the climate into fixed 22.5-degree bins and based on the sediment transport potential it determines the equivalent wave characteristics for each bin, i.e., a significant wave height, a peak period, a mean wave direction, and a corresponding frequency of occurrence. The approach is validated in idealized cases of uniformly sloping beaches with the presence of a breakwater, for various sediment diameters, sea bottom slopes, and different offshore wave characteristics. The performance of the proposed approach is evaluated against the full climate, returning good results. Furthermore, the proposed approach is applied in a real-life challenge, in the coastal area of Therma in the Island of Samothraki in Greece, where the presence of a fishing shelter has led to sedimentation and erosion problems. The performance of the proposed approach is very satisfactory, given the complexity of the problem. The generic nature of the proposed methodological approach allows it to be applied in numerous sandy coastal regions to estimate the sedimentation and erosion trends, reducing the amount of input parameters and thus requiring significantly less computational efforts.