Abstract
A two-dimensional model of the equilibrium profile for the most dynamic and shallow-water part of a nearshore region, including the wave-breaking zone, has been developed. Bed sediment grains are supposed to be homogeneous according to their density and size, and bed-load sediment transport is onshore and suspended-load transport is offshore. Bagnold's energetics concept is applied to the description of sediment transport. According to the model there are two types of profiles, characterized either by monotonous depth decreasing to the shore or by the presence of a trough and bar. The first type is more thoroughly investigated. The cases of monochromatic and random waves are considered. It has been found that in the region of increasing wave height the profile is convex, and in the dissipation zone it is concave. The slope steepness increases as the grain size grows. A satisfactory correspondence between theoretical and observed profiles is shown. The suggestion of a probable profile similarity criterion is put forward. It has been found that the formation of a bar-trough profile is related to the diminution of the asymmetry of the wave orbital velocity at the bottom or with the decreasing of the sand grain size at some beach slope section.
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