Abstract

Bed sediment composition, with a focus on the median grain size D50, was investigated at a large-scale nourishment (The ‘Sand Motor’) at the Dutch coast (∼21.5 millionm3 sand). Considerable alongshore heterogeneity of the bed composition (D50) was observed as the Sand Motor evolved over time with (1) coarsening of the exposed part of the Sand Motor (+90 to +150μm) and (2) a depositional area with relatively fine material (50μm finer) just North and South of the Sand Motor. The alongshore heterogeneity of the measured D50 values was most evident outside the surfzone (i.e. seaward of MSL −4m). Coarsening of the bed after construction of the Sand Motor was attributed to hydrodynamic sorting processes, because the alongshore heterogeneity of the D50 showed a similar spatial pattern as the mean bed shear stresses. The observed alongshore heterogeneity of the D50 and correlation of D50 with modelled mean bed shear stresses suggest that preferential erosion of the finer sand fractions has taken place. The selective transport of finer sand fractions results in a coarser top layer of the bed at the Sand Motor. The preferential transport is most dominant during mild and moderate conditions when hydrodynamic forcing conditions are close to the critical bed shear stresses for transport. The measurements also show the impact of a storm, which consists of a ∼40μm finer D50 of the offshore bed composition in front of the Sand Motor (i.e. where a considerably coarser bed was in place). Additionally, storms may generate a (temporary) zone with fine bed material at the toe of the deposition profile. This means that the coarsening of the bed is reduced by storms as a result of the mobilization of both coarse and fine sediment and mixing of the bed with the relatively finer substrate.

Highlights

  • IntroductionSpatial heterogeneity of bed sediment composition is observed at many coasts around the world (Holland and Elmore, 2008), but seldom accounted for in morphological or environmental impact studies of coastal interventions (e.g. modelling of sand nourishments; Capobianco et al, 2002)

  • Spatial heterogeneity of bed sediment composition is observed at many coasts around the world (Holland and Elmore, 2008), but seldom accounted for in morphological or environmental impact studies of coastal interventions.Knowledge of the potential spatial variability of the bed sediment is considered essential for the understanding of the ecological impact of large-scale coastal interventions

  • In this research we explored how observed bed composition changes relate to local hydrodynamic forcing conditions at the Sand Motor

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Summary

Introduction

Spatial heterogeneity of bed sediment composition is observed at many coasts around the world (Holland and Elmore, 2008), but seldom accounted for in morphological or environmental impact studies of coastal interventions (e.g. modelling of sand nourishments; Capobianco et al, 2002). Knowledge of the potential spatial variability of the bed sediment (i.e. grain size and grading) is considered essential for the understanding of the ecological impact of large-scale coastal interventions. Bed composition changes affect the ecological habitats for benthic species and fish Small changes in the top-layer (i.e. centimeters) grain size can, for example, significantly affect the burrowing ability of juvenile plaice (Gibson and Robb, 1992). Long-term morphological changes may be affected by bed coarsening when finer sand fractions are predominantly eroded (Van Rijn, 2007). The development of the morphology of rip-bar systems was found to be inter-related with the bed sediment (Gallagher et al, 2011; Dong et al, 2015)

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