Abstract
Summary A general model relating morphology, hydrodynamics and sediment transport behaviour of beach foreshores is outlined. This model states that on a reflective foreshore, where wave energy is reflected from the beach face, sediment increases steeply in size (0.2 mm/km) along the beach face, both downdrift and towards highest wave energy. This grading is temporally stable. On dissipative foreshores, where wave energy is dissipated across a surf zone, size gradings are weakly developed (< 0.1 mm/km) and have a high degree of temporal variability. The model applies to high‐energy, swell‐dominated, compartmentalized beaches with stable sea‐level and no sediment input. The model was formulated in the first instance for beaches around Broken Bay, and is supported by this study of size gradings on a wider range of beaches along the eastern Australia coast. However it can be distorted by the effects of localized sediment input, low energy, fine grain size or particle size availability, inshore reefs, tidal va...
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