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Abstract
Topical sun protective cosmetics (sunscreens, pre- and post-sun) have been intensively developed and produced to protect human skin against solar irradiation-associated damages/pathologies. Unfortunately, routine cosmetics for sun protection containing synthetic organic and/or physical sunscreens could exert adverse effects towards human organisms and bring undesirable ecological changes. Terrestrial and marine plant species, being exposed to sun light for hundreds of millions of years, have evolved two pro-survival strategies: effective protection against/adaptation to its deleterious effects and the use of solar energy for photosynthesis/photo-biochemical reactions. Secondary plant metabolites (SPM) are primary sensors of solar energy and mediators of its use (photo-sensitisers) or neutralisation (photo-protectors). A similar double photo-protective/photo-sensitising system is built in within human skin. Modern development of toxicologically/ecologically safe yet effective sun-protective cosmetics attempts to pre-select photo-stable and non-phototoxic SPMs that provide broad UVA + UVB sunscreen, free radical scavenging and direct antioxidant defence, endogenous antioxidant rescue, induction of antioxidant enzymes (indirect antioxidant defence), and normalisation of metabolic and immune responses to UVA + UVB. Proper formulation of sun protective cosmetics should assure targeted delivery of photo-active SPMs to definite skin layers to invigorate the built in photo-chemical skin barrier.
Highlights
Solar UV radiation interacts with an extremely complex networks of cutaneous compartments dedicated to mechanical, photo-chemical, redox, metabolic, and immune defence of the skin and underlying organs
Inducer, following photo-oxidation by solar UV [32]. In this context, peroxidated squalene has been suggested as another endogenous aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR)-CYP activator in the skin, and a potential contributor to pro-inflammatory functions of epidermal keratinocytes amid their response to squalene peroxide with a significant upregulation and de novo synthesis of IL-6 and TNF-alpha [32]
Numerous Secondary plant metabolites (SPM) synthesised by plants/marine organisms on request in response to challenges of the hostile environment, first of all, solar irradiation seems to be excellent candidates to prevent, decelerate or even revert skin damage provided by solar radiation [108]
Summary
Solar UV radiation interacts with an extremely complex networks of cutaneous compartments dedicated to mechanical, photo-chemical, redox, metabolic, and immune defence of the skin and underlying organs. It reaches directly or by means of photo-chemical mediators the viable layers of epidermis and the underlying dermal compartments [1]. Upon exposure to UV radiation or to photo-chemical mediators, skin keratinocytes mount characteristic inflammatory, metabolic, and proliferative responses in an attempt for self-protection from and adaptation to UV-induced damage [2]. We will address this issue comparing natural evolution-derived photo-active systems/mechanisms in human skin, higher plants, and lower marine organisms
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