Sea wave propagation from offshore to Maputo's coast. Application to longshore sediment transport assessment.

Abstract

This study aims to characterize the wave climate near the coastal region of Maputo (Mozambique), and to provide a first assessment of the sediment transport load in this area. A time-series of 13 years' worth of offshore wave data, obtained from reanalysis products, was propagated to the coast. Wave propagation was performed using Linear Wave theory and the numerical model, Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN). Propagations with SWAN were carried out considering different scenarios in order to evaluate the influence of parameters such as wind, tidal level, frequency spectrum and numerical mesh resolution on wave characteristics along the coast. The prevalent waves propagated came from between east and southwest directions. Results from linear propagation were used to estimate the potential longshore sediment transport. The Coastal Engineering Research Center formula was applied for a stretch of beach in the Machangulo Peninsula. A net potential rate of longitudinal sediment transport (of the order of 10(5) m(3)/year, along an extension of the coast of 21 km) was directed northwards, and was consistent with the frequent wave directions.