Abstract

Under certain conditions of near-shore slope and wave activity, the major seaward drainage of water which has been moved toward the beach in waves and breakers is in the form of rip currents. These currents are particularly well developed along the coast of New South Wales, where they exhibit a systematic form. Each beach has a complete rip-current system which is controlled by the particular features of the beach and which is varied by such factors as the size and regularity of the waves, the tide, and the wave-source direction. Although strict principles cannot be applied to the variations of these systems, it is possible to evaluate the major factors involved and to analyze and predict the forms of each system under variable conditions.

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