Abstract
Mass, momentum and energy conservation laws, including the radiation stress, are used to derive an equation of the eigenvalues of rip current spacing. A coastal region with linear bottom slope is divided into two parts: Offshore region and surfzone separated by the breaker line. Wave set-up, wave energy and mean current are assumed to be composed of basic state, which is a function of the distance from the coast to offshore only, and of superposed two-dimensional perturbations. In the case of normal incidence of waves, basic steady current system vanishes and perturbations are found to be of cellular shape. According to the boundary conditions at the coast, stream function of perturbed motion in the surfzone can be represented by the confluent hypergeometric function, while in the offshore zone it is approximated by the modified Bessel function. Interpolation of the stream functions in the surf and offshore regions enables us to obtain a characteristic relation which gives the eigenvalues of nondimensional alongshore spacing of rip current system as a function of a parameter determined by the bottom friction coefficient, width of the surfzone and breaker height.
Sign-in/Register to access full text options 
Talk to us
Join us for a 30 min session where you can share your feedback and ask us any queries you have
Schedule a callDisclaimer: All third-party content on this website/platform is and will remain the property of their respective owners and is provided on "as is" basis without any warranties, express or implied. Use of third-party content does not indicate any affiliation, sponsorship with or endorsement by them. Any references to third-party content is to identify the corresponding services and shall be considered fair use under The CopyrightLaw.
