Abstract
This article aims to perform a narrative review of the book "The mansions and the shanties" written by the Brazilian sociologist Gilberto Freyre, published for the first time in 1936. The study analyzed Gilberto Freyre's contribution to the process of interpreting the formation and modification of the eating habits and patterns of the Brazilian society. The analysis is limited to a review, from a dietician's perspective, of text clippings where Freyre seeks to reconstruct and interpret the process of formation and modification of eating habits and patterns in the context of a patriarchal society. The text will try to answer the questions: what, how much, how, when, where, and with whom were the dwellers of mansions and shanties eating? Comparison of the eating habits of the rural patriarchal society with those of the emerging urban patriarchal society has shown Freyre's clear trend of aversion to the "Europeanization" of eating habits and his affection for traditional culinary values. The new eating habits of mansions and plantation houses were portrayed with disdain, denoting an author who remained stuck to the culinary traditions of a rural patriarchal society, to taste memories, especially of the sweets, cakes, and desserts created, adapted, and savored in Pernambuco state sugar mills.
Highlights
Revista de NutriçãoA presente análise limita-se a uma revisão, sob o olhar do nutricionista, dos recortes textuais onde Freyre procura reconstituir e interpretar o processo de formação e modificação dos hábitos e padrões alimentares no contexto da sociedade patriarcal
The sociologist from Pernambuco state, Gilberto Freire (1900-1987), has been one of the most studied Brazilian authors in Brazil[1,2,3,4,5,6,7] and abroad[8,9,10,11]
Especially the books published in the 1930s, namely “The masters and the slaves”[12] and “The mansions and the shanties” 13, assemble precious records of the formation of the eating habits and patterns of the Brazilian society, leading us to habitually include this author in the list of scholars involved in the history of the constitution of the nutrition science field in Brazil[2]
Summary
A presente análise limita-se a uma revisão, sob o olhar do nutricionista, dos recortes textuais onde Freyre procura reconstituir e interpretar o processo de formação e modificação dos hábitos e padrões alimentares no contexto da sociedade patriarcal. Ao realizar uma contraposição entre os hábitos alimentares da sociedade patriarcal rural com aqueles da emergente sociedade patriarcal urbana, observou-se nítida tendência a aversão, por parte de Freyre, em relação à “europeização” dos hábitos alimentares e, em contrapartida, de afeição aos valores culinários tradicionais. Os novos hábitos alimentares dos sobrados e casas grandes foram retratados com estranhamento, denotando um autor preso às tradições culinárias da sociedade patriarcal rural, aos sabores de memória, sobretudo dos doces, bolos e sobremesas inventados, adaptados e degustados nos engenhos de Pernambuco.
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