Rheological Properties and Stability of Dermatocosmetic Emulsions with Collagen and Natural Ingredients Used as Color Correcting Cream and Cream Foundation

Elena Danila,Cristina Negrea,Cornelia Nitipir,Madalina Georgiana Albu Kaya,Lacramioara Popa,Durmus Alpaslan Kaya,Mihaela Violeta Ghica

doi:10.37358/rc.19.6.7249

Abstract

The aim of this study was to formulate and evaluate two types of O/W emulsions based on collagen and other natural ingredients that can be used as color correcting (CC-cream) and cream foundation. Both types of emulsions obtained are stable at different temperatures and the pH values of emulsions correspond to the natural pH of the skin, indicating that emulsions can be safely applied to the skin. Results from the optical microscopy analysis show that all emulsions present foam-like appearance. The rheological properties of emulsions were studied and it was proved that all emulsions present a non-Newtonian pseudoplastic behaviour and thixotropic characteristics at two operating temperatures (24 and 33�C). It can be concluded that all emulsions can be used as a natural alternative to a CC-cream or a cream foundation. Further microbiological tests and clinical trials are necessary for the obtained emulsions.

Highlights

Emulsions are defined as disperse systems consisting of two immiscible liquids which are stabilized by the addition of an emulsifying agent, called emulsifier [1]
Advantageous cosmetic emulsion preparations are obtained when natural proteins are used as active ingredients
Collagen is one of the natural proteins used in cosmetic preparations due to its biodegradability, availability and biocompatibility [6]

Summary

Experimental part Materials and methods

Collagen hydrolysate was obtained by acid hydrolysis of wet white leather wastes at 125°C during 8 h according to the technology previously described [19]. The ingredients of phase A and phase B are heated in a water bath in two heat-resistant Berzelius beakers, periodically homogenizing the composition. When both phases reach a temperature of about 70-75°C, they are removed from the water bath; the content of phase B is slowly added over phase A by mixing constantly. For each cream a rotational speed over the range from 0.3 to 60 rpm was applied at both temperatures, corresponding to a shear rate between 0.08-16.8 s-1. It can be appreciated that the value of m parameter corresponds to the viscosity obtained for the shear rate value of 1· s-1.

Results and discussions

Rheological analysis Pseudoplastic behaviour

Optical microscopy analysis results are presented in figures

THE VALUES OF THE RHEOLOGICAL PARAMETERS m AND n AND

Conclusions