Reviving a Heritage in Peril: India’s Endangered Traditions of Cotton and Wool

Abstract

This article traces the journey of two indigenous textile fibres—Kala cotton and Desi Oon—and the efforts of farmers, pastoralists, craft artisans and Khamir, to conserve, sustain and promote the natural and cultural heritage that have nourished these fibres. It recreates the revival of these fibres in Kutch, a semi-arid region of India, and unfolds the technical, cultural and creative challenges that have accompanied this process—from land to the loom. Large-scale shifts in Indian agriculture have marked a significant breakdown of the value loops and deep interdependent economies between farmers, spinners, weavers, dyers and tailors. First, in the nineteenth century, when the cultivation of short staple indigenous varieties of cotton shifted to long staple cotton, which could feed the mills of Britain; and then in the late twentieth century when a global push towards hybrid, genetically modified varieties of cotton strode over the farming of more resilient local cotton varieties. Similarly, across India, vast genetic resource of sheep, yak and camels, in particular, have, for centuries, been conserved and bred by the nomadic pastoral communities of these regions. Even two and a half decade ago, the animal’s fibre was used extensively by the pastoralists themselves and fetched them a market price for the wool that was almost equal to that of meat. However, with India becoming a major sheep meat producing country, accompanied by the relaxation of tariffs on wool imports in the early nineties, the Indian wool market has moved completely to softer, longer staple wool from New Zealand, Australia and the Middle East. Today, this is the only natural fibre in which India is deficient despite having the third largest number of sheep in the world! The process of conserving indigenous cotton seeds, sheep breeds, their fibres and a range of associated textile crafts, challenge all the essential premises on which the political economy of contemporary textiles rest. However hope comes in many forms—the intense climatic variabilities and growing vulnerabilities to climate change, is compelling farmers and pastoralists to revisit the choices they have been compelled to adopt by a globalized market economy. Their growing understanding and need to revive their local cotton seeds and animal breeds, which are more adaptable and resilient to climatic variabilities, hold out a tremendous opportunity to transform the landscape of indigenous textile fibres. Through her experiences, the author stitches together a story of localization wherein Khamir attempts to restore a lost heritage and the bonds between farmers, pastoralists, spinners, weavers and dyers.