Review of Methodological Choices in LCA-Based Textile and Apparel Rating Tools: Key Issues and Recommendations Relating to Assessment of Fabrics Made From Natural Fibre Types

K J Watson,S G Wiedemann

doi:10.3390/su11143846

Abstract

Life cycle assessment (LCA) is a key tool for determining environmental impacts for textiles and apparel and is the basis for the publicly available Higg Material Sustainability Index (MSI) developed by the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC). This paper reviews and evaluates the Higg MSI with respect to rating of fabrics made from natural fibre types, with the aim of providing a constructive analysis of methodological issues identified by comparison with the International Standards and LCA guidelines. The major issues identified by the review were: (1) lack of sufficient guidance for comparative analysis and public disclosure; (2) incomplete system boundaries and the choice of functional unit; (3) the choice of attributional LCA methods and variable methods applied for handling multi-functionality; (4) use of generalised data and small datasets, without reported sensitivity or uncertainty; (5) exclusion of important impact categories, choice of LCIA methods and lack of coverage of non-LCA assessed issues; and (6) the choice of the weighting and normalisation approach. This review found that the provision of, and adherence to the appropriate standards and best practice in LCA would rectify most of these issues. To achieve the laudable aims of the Higg MSI, further development and refinement is needed to ensure robust information is provided to improve the sustainability of textiles.

Highlights

The textile industry is a vital contributor to global societies, providing clothing that is essential for humanity [1]
Where results are made available for public comparison and promotion of one product and another, both ISO and Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) provide a strong and clear structure for ensuring analyses are made ‘on like terms’ to fulfil requirements of Section 5.3 of ISO 14044
PEF studies that are for external communication and comparison require more rigor than PEF studies for internal communication, and in the former, these need to be consistent with both the PEF guide and Product Environmental Footprint Category Rules (PEFCR), while for the latter these can be completed based on only the PEF guide

Summary

Introduction

The textile industry is a vital contributor to global societies, providing clothing that is essential for humanity [1]. As a result of production, manufacturing, use and disposal, all textiles leave an environmental ‘footprint’ [2]. This footprint is rarely limited to the region of the world where the garment is sold, used and disposed of, but extends to countries that produce raw materials, manufacture and process textiles and garments. Textile production is resource intensive and gives rise to substantial environmental impacts from greenhouse gases, energy and water use, chemicals, microplastics and wastes [3,4,5,6,7,8]. The environmental impacts are determined by raw material type, manufacturing processes, the length of time that garments are used prior to disposal, garment care, and the end-of-life disposal methods used, some of which are partly determined by the consumer [9,10,11]

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Conclusion