Abstract

The objective of this study was to optimize reversed-phase high-performance liquid chromatography (RP-HPLC) using an experimental design approach based on the response surface methodology of Central Composite Design (CCD) for separation and analysis of carmine (CAR) and Rhodamine B (RHO) in lipstick products. Some factors (independent variables) responsible for RP-HPLC separation including pH of buffer phosphate (X1), the acetonitrile ratio (X2), flow rate of mobile phase (X3), and column temperature (X4) were investigated. While, the responses (dependent variables) evaluated were resolution between CAR and RHO (Y1), tailing factor of CAR (Y2), tailing factor of RHO (Y3), retention time of CAR (Y4), retention time of RHO (Y5), peak area of CAR (Y6) and peak area of RHO (Y7). CCD showed that separation of CAR and RHO was influenced by these independent variables (factors). The optimum predicted conditions for the separation of CAR and RHO based on statistical results was pH buffer of 3.4, ACN 55%, the flow rate of 1.1 mL/min and column temperature of 35 o C with the desirability of 1. Both CAR and RHO were clearly separated using optimum conditions, as suggested by CCD. The developed techniques were effective for optimizing chromatographic separation, therefore, the time consumption and a large number of running could be hindered.

Highlights

  • The use of coloring agent in many cosmetic products such as lipsticks, eye shadows, eyeliners, blushers, and nail polishes is common, especially for woman

  • The dyes used in cosmetics products are subject to a wide range of restrictions from the main regulatory authorities such as US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) in the United States of America, the European Commission (EC) in the European Union (EU), and the Ministry of Health, Labor and Welfare (MHLW) in Japan

  • Carmine (CI 75470) [CAR] is one of the permitted coloring agents used in cosmetics including lipsticks, but in some susceptible people, the contact of the human body with CAR can produce allergic reactions, sensitization or photosensitization (DiCello et al, 1999; Miyakawa et al, 2017)

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Summary

Introduction

The use of coloring agent in many cosmetic products such as lipsticks, eye shadows, eyeliners, blushers, and nail polishes is common, especially for woman. The dyes used in cosmetics products are subject to a wide range of restrictions from the main regulatory authorities such as US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) in the United States of America, the European Commission (EC) in the European Union (EU), and the Ministry of Health, Labor and Welfare (MHLW) in Japan. In Indonesia, the restriction of coloring agents in cosmetics was regulated by The National Agency of Drug and Food Control, Republic of Indonesia (Nohynek et al, 2010). Rhodamine B (CI 45170) [RDB], is prohibited as a coloring agent in cosmetic products in the United States, EU, and Indonesia

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