Relative Contributions Of Strength, Anthropometric, And Demographic Characteristics To Rock Climbing Performance

Abstract

PURPOSE: The purpose of the present study was to determine the relative contributions of handgrip and individual finger strength, body size, climbing experience, and training habits for the prediction of climbing performance in a bouldering competition. METHODS: Sixty-seven climbers (males: n = 46, females: n = 21; mean age ± SD = 21.1 ± 4.0 yrs; body mass = 69.5 ± 9.8 kg; height = 173.5 ± 8.3 cm; climbing experience = 2.7 ± 2.6 yrs; climbing frequency = 3.0 ± 1.2 sessions·wk-1) volunteered for this study. Data collection occurred immediately before an indoor bouldering competition and involved the assessment of handgrip and individual finger maximal force production using an electronic handheld dynamometer. Individual finger strength was defined as the maximal force generated using a tip-to-tip pinch between each finger and the thumb. All measures of strength were normalized to body mass (kg). Subjects also completed a questionnaire to determine climbing experience and training habits (i.e. climbing frequency). The bouldering competition consisted of 70 routes graded V0 (easiest) - V8 (most difficult) with higher point values awarded for completing more difficult routes. Stepwise multiple regression analyses were used to examine the relative contributions of handgrip and individual finger strengths, body mass, height, climbing experience, and climbing frequency to the prediction of performance scores in the competition. RESULTS: The results indicated there were significant [F(3, 63)=12.499, p < 0.001] predictors of climbing performance in our model. Specifically, ring finger pinch strength, climbing experience, and climbing frequency significantly (p < 0.05) contributed to the model (R2 = 0.373), whereas body mass, height, full handgrip strength as well as index, middle, and little finger pinch strengths did not. The β-weights showed that ring finger pinch strength (β = 0.430) was the most significant contributor followed by climbing experience (β = 0.331) and climbing frequency (β = 0.244). CONCLUSIONS: These findings illustrated the importance of ring finger pinch strength on climbing performance in a bouldering competition. Our results also suggested that increasing climbing experience and frequency of training may contribute to greater ring finger pinch strength and overall climbing performance.