Abstract
Quantifying subsurface velocity in the surf-zone beneath shoaling/breaking/broken waves is critical to accurately predict nearshore processes such as sediment transport [Hsu and Hanes, 2004]. The in-situ instruments designed to measure this velocity where waves break, such as velocimeters, routinely get buried, broken, or lost in the surf-zone. This limits our ability to collect field datasets of subsurface velocity in energetic wave conditions. To address this, we propose to build on known relationships that link subsurface velocity behavior to more easily observable surface signatures. Here, we collect the necessary surface and subsurface data to test the hypothesis that surf-zone surface measurements can predict subsurface velocity profiles extending to the bed.
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