Abstract
Accurate real-time wave prediction is an invaluable resource for coastal disaster mitigation, especially when determining the activation of disaster evacuation plans and inundation countermeasures. This study presents: (1) the development and validation of real-time wave prediction using the wave model SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore) with wind forcing from the meteorological data of GFS (Global Forecast System), and HAGPV (Hourly Available Grid Point Value) atmospheric analysis, and (2) the development of a virtual buoy system. The predictions were compared with wave gauge observations at various locations throughout Japan. Predicted wave heights and periods corresponded well to observed values. The virtual buoy system is accomplished using the Google Maps API to visually show wave predictions. The prediction system was applied during the coastal swell disaster at Toyama Prefecture, Japan in February 2008 and gave reasonable results for swell heights and periods.
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