Quality Regulation in the Global “Wine Periphery”: The Case of Late Imperial Rio de Janeiro (1880–1889)

Abstract

ABSTRACT This article explores the consequences of the phylloxera crisis on Rio de Janeiro’s wine market, the resulting public health debate, and the administrative problem of quality regulation and consumer protection. As a peripheral market with relatively low purchasing power, the Brazilian capital became a destination for many cheap imitation wines from Europe and also developed its own artificial wine industry. By the mid-1880s this led to a fierce competition on Rio’s wine market, which in turn provoked an unprecedented public debate about wine qualities and public health. Thus, the article shows that the problem of food safety, brought to public attention by the wine question, occupied a central place on the health agenda of the medical profession as well as the government and health authorities in late Imperial Brazil, triggering regulatory interventions that followed European models.