Prévention des lésions des cartilages de croissance des doigts chez les jeunes grimpeurs

Abstract

IntroductionEpiphyseal stress fractures of the second phalanx base of the fingers are predominant in young climbers. The objectives of the study were 1) to determine the incidence of these injuries among young French competitive climbers (9–18 years old); 2) to determine injury risk factors during training. MethodsA questionnaire was sent to French climbing coaches between September 2015 and April 2017. ResultsFour injured presenting 5 injuries were collected. The injured seemed to train more than the uninjured, to have a higher level of competition and to compete more per year. In global physical preparation, the injured seemed to work less on their flexibility than the uninjured. During training, the wounded paid less attention to warm-up. During warm-up, the wounded were doing less cardiorespiratory work. In specific upper limb strength training, 45.45% of trainers used the girder and pan Güllich and 72.72% the no foot, known to be at risk of injury. DiscussionThe training of injured climbers had known risk factors for overuse injuries and epiphyseal fractures. Furthermore, there was a lack of knowledge among youth and coaches about: 1) the use of risky methods; 2) epiphyseal stress fractures of the fingers and their consequences. To prevent these fractures, training and competitions should be adapted to children and an information campaign should be organized for families and coaches.