Abstract

The significant wave height of waves recorded from August 1986 to July 1989, at a station located in Todos Santos Bay, B.C., Mexico, is analysed. The results show a seasonal variation. The maximum value (2.4 m) occurred in winter and the minimum (0.2 m) in summer. The probability distribution of significant wave height is tested with the theoretical distributions of Fisher-Tippett I, Weibull and Rayleigh. The best fit is shown by the Fisher-Tippett I probability density function. This function is also used to estimate the significant wave height of 50 and 100-year return periods, giving 3.41 and 3.76 m, respectively.

Highlights

  • One of the strongest forces to which offshore structures are exposed is the dashing of waves

  • The aim of this study is to test the fit of the Fisher-Tippett 1, Weibull and Rayleigh theoretical probability distribution functions to the wave heights recorded from August 1986 to July 1989, off the breakwater that protects the port of Ensenada, Baja California (Mexico), and calculate the design wave for 50 and lOO-year retum periods with the best least squares fit

  • In order to characterize the seasonal regime of waves, the information analysed was classified according to the different seasons

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Summary

INTRODUCTION

One of the strongest forces to which offshore structures are exposed is the dashing of waves. The aim of this study is to test the fit of the Fisher-Tippett 1, Weibull and Rayleigh theoretical probability distribution functions to the wave heights recorded from August 1986 to July 1989, off the breakwater that protects the port of Ensenada, Baja California (Mexico), and calculate the design wave for 50 and lOO-year retum periods with the best least squares fit. The wave data analysed in this study were obtained at station Rompeolas 1 (Fig. l), where an autonomous pressure meter (Sea-Data, model 635-08) with 0.1 cm pre cision was installed (further details in Martínez-Díaz de León and Nava-Button, 1987b) This meter was mounted on an aluminium structure at the bottom, at an average depth of 10 m. Martínez-Díaz de León y Coria-Méndez: Distribución de probabilidad de altura del oleaje lO,O) l l16°Sl’0, 31°41’N 1

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RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
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