Preliminary Studies about Valorization of Acmella oleracea Bioactive Content in Modern Dermato-Cosmetic Applications to Combat Skin Oxidative Stress.

Abstract

The development of products with skin-protective effects has been driven by the increasing incidence of skin diseases that are exacerbated by increasing pollution, urbanization, poor living, working, fatigue, dietary habits, and general treatment. The ability of antioxidants to protect the skin from oxidative stress and its effects makes them one of the most important ingredients in today's cosmetics. This article aims first to characterize the plant extracts obtained from Acmella oleracea (A. oleracea) and then to evaluate the preliminary criteria for a new marketed product: the stability, antioxidant activity, and in vitro behavior of certain serums based on A. oleracea plant extract and hyaluronic acid. The extracts were obtained by liquid-solid extraction methods (maceration (M), ultrasound-assisted extraction (UEA), and a combined method between these two (UEA + M) using an aqueous solution of ethyl alcohol as the extraction solvent. The determination of the amounts of compounds with antioxidant activity highlighted the fact that the extract obtained from the whole plant of A. oleracea using maceration in conditions of S/L = 1:30, 20 days, and an extraction solvent percentage of 50% led to obtaining the highest amount of polyphenols (30.42 μg GAE/g), while using the combined UAE + M method under conditions of S/L = 1:30, 6 min + 20 days, and 50% extraction solvent led to obtaining the highest amount of flavonoids (32.88 mg QE/g). The tests performed on dermato-cosmetic serums based on the plant extract and multimolecular hyaluronic acid (HA) (1 HA with HMW-1.0 mDa-1.6 mDa; HA with LMW-10 kDa-200 kDa; and HA OLIGO, MW < 10 kDa) led to the conclusion that they exhibit structural stability, good shear behavior revealing a satisfactory texture, and high physical stability during storage. These results encourage the transition to in-depth testing, both microbiological and dermatological, as a final step in the consideration of a new commercial product.