Pluri-annual morphological and sedimentological changes of the Valahnúkur boulder barrier, SW Iceland

Abstract

<p>While recent studies highlighted the great mobility of boulder beaches related to the impact of storm waves, numerous researches are still needed to better understand the morphodynamic of coastal boulder accumulations. This paper provides original data about pluri-annual morphological and sedimentological changes, as well as storm-induced geomorphic processes and their impact on the Valahnúkur boulder barrier, in the south-west of Iceland. First described by Etienne & Paris (2010), this massive accumulation of boulders shows numerous evidences of coastal barrier flooding and intense boulder mobility.</p><p>Between May 2015 and May 2021, a topo-morphological survey was undertaken to analyze and quantify both cross-shore and longshore morphosedimentary processes of the Valahnúkur boulder barrier and surrounding areas. Annual campaigns of UAV (Unmanned Aerial Vehicle) flights were conducted in order to produce a set of Digital Elevation Models (DEMs) and Orthophotographs using Structure-from-Motion photogrammetry. DEMs were compared to deduce the morphological changes. Orthophotographs were analyzed from a deep learning-based method to estimate the changes in the spatial distribution of boulder sizes. Hydrodynamic conditions were reconstructed using wave buoy and tide gauge measurements. Wave runup were calibrated from the analysis of a wave/swash motion data set acquired by video monitoring related to different hydrodynamic conditions. The chronology of extreme water levels has been reconstructed on this high refective beach to estimate the elevation of the wave action during the survey period.</p><p>From the sediment budget calculation, a significant northward longshore drift of around 1000 m3/a is highlighted on the beachface. The ridge and back-barrier areas were dominated by accretion related to cross-shore boulder transport from the beach. The volume of transported boulders is highly variable according to hydrodynamic conditions. Although the morphogenic impact of winter storms is difficult to assess, the observed morphological changes suggest processes dominated by swash, overtopping and overwash. The boulder size analysis highlights a link between the boulders mass and their movement landward. Video monitoring indicates that the amplitude of the swash is quite similar whether the hydrodynamic conditions are normal or energetic. The high porosity of the barrier appears to be a key factor in the dissipation of wave energy.</p>