Abstract

The main purpose of the paper is to trace the continuity of the form of pilgrim signs: Renaissance secular hat badges inherited the shape and composition of late medieval pilgrim badges. More than a hundred European portraits of the late 15th — first half of the 16th century represent a model in a headdress decorated with a similar medal or badge, often with an emblematic image inside. This accessory originates from the religious tradition of keeping small medallions from pilgrimage sites, made of cheap metals or wax and known as “pilgrim signs”. The relevance of the research lies in the comparison of cultural traditions usually studied separately from each other due to their belonging to different periods of art history, as well as in an attempt to trace their continuity. The author analyzes the process of transferring the semantic meanings of pilgrim badges from the religious sphere to the field of socio-cultural practices associated with secular aristocratic fashion and the goals of personal self-identification. The article highlights the main aspects of the existence and functioning of pilgrimage signs, analyzes the practices of their purchase, wearing and storage. The author examines the development of their external forms, the variety of materials, as well as the meanings with which these signs were endowed in everyday life. There is found that Renaissance hat badges still retained the meaning of religious patronage. In some examples of portrait images, there is presented the practice of wearing jewelry badges-brooches that were part of aristocratic fashion suits, the elements of which can be interpreted in the context of personal self-identification practices. In this role, the hat badges imply a kind of expression of feelings, moods and intentions of the person portrayed. In the process of comparing the Renaissance brooches and pilgrim signs, there is also manifested their significant semantic difference organizing the visual narrative.

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