Pigment mixing effect realized with pre-dyed opaque yarns for Jacquard textile design development

Abstract

In modern Jacquard weaving, the application of yarn color variety is limited to electronic Jacquard machinery and realizing a wide scope of weave colors can be challenging. Therefore, when reproducing a pictorial image with a small yarn variety, artwork colors are defined by a CMYK (cyan, magenta, yellow, and black) system and its primary color data are used to associate with weave structures. In alignment with a CMYK pattern layout, shaded weave structures are incorporated to expand the accessible gamut of weave colors and natural shading is realized by different cover factors in the warp and weft. The mixing effect of CMYK yarns is intended for resolving the technical limitations of current digital Jacquard weaving. In this study, quantitative research is designed to examine four yarn mixing effects for which pairs of CMYK yarns are superimposed (e.g., [C]+[M], [C]+[Y], [M]+[Y], [C]+[K], [M]+[K], [Y]+[K]) and 90 different weave colors are produced in six groups. Once they are formatted in a standardized size, weave samples are measured by a spectrophotometer and analyzed by three coordinates ( L*, a*, and b*) of a CIELAB color system. As shown by the analysis results, the weave colors bear not only varied brightness, hue, and chroma alternations, but also a great similarity to the pigment mixing effect. In application of the color mixing effect, a new way of woven color presentation is achieved and introduced as a new development of Jacquard design.