Abstract

The objective of this study was to develop and analyze a gel-like formulation that does not contain water, made from natural compounds found in essential oils, which are known for their antimicrobial properties and ability to reduce inflammation. Lentisk tree (Pistacia lentiscus L.), yarrow (Achillea millefolium L.) and myrtle (Myrtus communis L.) grow in the mild climate of Eurasia and are receiving particular attention for their medicinal and aromatic value. Two distinct concentrations of selected essential oils (EOs) were tested, dispersed in organogels based on 3 % (m/V) Carbopol 974P NF in PEG 400. Prior to formulation development, selected EOs were characterized by mass spectroscopy to identify the dominating bioactives. A total of 32 compounds were quantified for lentisk leaf EO, 42 for yarrow EO, and 26 for myrtle leaf EO. The best formulations were found for the highest concentration of EOs (4 %, m/m) into Carbopol/PEG400 organogels. Organogels were produced by high-speed homogenization followed by microwave heating and showed acceptable pH between 5.8 and 6.0, being compatible with the skin, with an electrical conductivity highest for yarrow EO-based organogel (YIG4%, ∼64 mV), and the lowest for myrtle EO-based organogel (MIG4%, ∼48 mV). Texture analysis showed the highest adhesion properties for lentisk EO-based organogel (LIG4%), attributed to its higher viscosity recorded for the two tested temperatures (25 °C vs 37 °C). Rheological analysis confirmed that organogels have pseudoplastic behaviour. The antibacterial activity was compared between plain EOs and EOs-based organogels, with the yarrow EO and its organogel (YIG4%) depicting the highest activity against both tested bacterial strains (S. aureus and C. acnes). On the other hand, MIG4% contributed for the highest cell proliferation rate tested in a mouse embryo fibroblast cell line (3T3-L1), whereas with LIG4% the lowest viability value was recorded.

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