Physics of the ocean

Abstract

A hundred years ago better navigational instruments, improved charts and the compilation of wind and current atlases brought much improvement to navigation. In comparison the advances made by modern instruments and theoretical methods are second-order steps, but they are just as exciting, and with the increased pressure of to-day's civilization and industry, probably more important. In particular we are beginning to get a better understanding of waves, currents and the general circulation in the oceans, which will allow us to make better use of the oceans, and to contend with them on more equal terms when necessary.