Abstract
Most of the currently used products for repairing and conditioning hair rely on the deposition of complex formulations, based on mixtures involving macromolecules and surfactants, onto the surface of hair fibers. This leads to the partial covering of the damaged areas appearing in the outermost region of capillary fibers, which enables the decrease of the friction between fibers, improving their manageability and hydration. The optimization of shampoo and conditioner formulations necessitates a careful examination of the different physicochemical parameters related to the conditioning mechanism, e.g., the thickness of the deposits, its water content, topography or frictional properties. This review discusses different physicochemical aspects which impact the understanding of the most fundamental bases of the conditioning process.
Highlights
Environmental exposure together with the thermal and chemical treatments may cause changes in the hair texture, leading to hair frizz and tangling as well as dryness
The most common polycations in formulations for conditioning purposes are those presenting quaternary ammonium as charged groups [49]. These polymers present a good adhesion to the keratinous structure of the hair fibers, which favors their role in conditioning
This leads to a situation in which the use of model surfaces is a powerful tool for deepening the understanding of the physicochemical bases underlying the interaction of cosmetic formulations and hair fibers [50,53]
Summary
Environmental exposure together with the thermal and chemical treatments may cause changes in the hair texture, leading to hair frizz and tangling as well as dryness. Among the currently used approaches for hair-conditioning, those involving the interaction of complex mixtures, including macromolecules (synthetic polymers, polyelectrolytes, proteins, etc.) and surfactants, with the surface of the hair fibers are probably the most commonly exploited [6,7,8]. The correct choice of the composition and other variables provides the basis for preparing a one-phase formulation, which can undergo a phase-separation process as result of the dilution process occurring during their application onto the hair fiber under the shower This leads to an enhanced deposition of the conditioning species onto the hair fibers. The understanding of the above aspects is essential to ensure that shampoo/conditioner formulations fulfill the requirements associated with their role in washing and improving the sensorial effects of hair
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