Abstract

Natural oil is commonly used as the base oil of high-end cosmetics. To meet the requirements of general users, the ratio of traditional vegetable oil-based interesterified fats continues to increase in industrial applications. Common interesterified fats are derived from chemical catalysis, which shows high specification requirements for raw materials and catalysts. Although enzymatic interesterification (EIE) is not commonly used in industry, it is far more economical, healthy and environmentally friendly. This study aims to use palm olein (POL) and lauric acid-based palm kernel oil (PKO) as raw materials to produce EIE fats by using Lipozyme TLIM® as the catalyst. The migration of acyl groups during EIE contributed to the modifications of the triacylglycerol compositions, the production of fats with fine crystals due to the accelerated crystallization rate, and improved fat properties such as plasticity, melting profile, viscosity, and spreadability. The interesterified cosmetic base oil showed reduced hydrophobicity and unaltered refractive index with no toxic heavy metal elements introduced during the process.

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