Physical Modelling for the Analysis of Wave Characteristics on Tropical Peat Coast

Abstract

Coastal erosion problems have been occurring continuously during at least the last 30 years along the coast of eastern Sumatra, particularly in the north part of Bengkalis Island that facing directly the Malacca Strait. In the extreme case, the coastal setback on Bengkalis Island has reached 30 m/year. The transport and deposition of peat material in the tropical coastal area is a unique phenomenon that has apparently never been explored until nowadays. Most studies have focused on the transport and deposition dynamics of sediment of cohesive and sandy material. It is therefore very important to understand the wave characteristics on tropical peat coast in order to countermeasure the problems triggered by this degradative process. The purpose of this research is to develop a physical modelling to understand the wave characteristics on tropical peat coast. Two important parameters such as wave reflection and dissipation were analysed using wave channel and artificial beach in laboratory. The artificial beach was simulated using peat, permeable, and impermeable material with 15° and 90° beach slope. The results showed that the reflection and the dissipation coefficient at peat coast tend to close with the impermeable coast both for 15° and 90° slope.